"Quite early in the war, Norman Hartnell was summoned to discuss the Queen's costume for hostilities. It was comparatively easy to stick to the government rules for 'austerity' dressing: a limited number ofseams per dress, narrow collars and belts, a minimum of frills. Embroidery was forbidden, so Hartnell hand-painted garlands of lilac on one satin gown which, with jewels, became the Queen's standard uniform at diplomatic soirees."